- stone gardens ballard, pink v5, new 45' - fun with big moves up the 30' part, foot beta from greg.
- stone gardens ballard, orange v5, roof / traverse - slopers, move fast.
- stone gardens ballard, blue v4, vantage - trickier than the v5, balance and tricky footwork. end is a long smear.
- stone gardens ballard, purple v4, 70 - big moves, classy and technical.
% cat /dev/random
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki//dev/random
Thursday, February 2, 2012
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
Sunday, January 29, 2012
i went to tacoma yesterday and hit up vertical world.
- blue v4/v5, slab - up the corner of the slab, some tricky holds and the last reach was far.
- orange v4/v5, slab - i don't actually remember this one very well ... i just remember it being some long reaches.
- green v4/v5, slab - this one was fun and had some heel hooking and jumping. i had some swamp-palm going on with a pinch, so it took a few tries.
- yellow v4/v5, slab - the start was tough and i had to do some fancy flagging, but once the side jugs were caught, it was just balancing up.
- purple v4/v5, corner wave - lots of gastons and side pulls.
- black v4/v5, big wave - project from last time, but i think i just pulled harder yesterday. i got pumped towards the end of the route, so it took a few tries.
- blue v4/v5, steep wave - crimps and heel hooks and gaston pinches.
- green v4/v5, steep wave - contest problem and a project from last time i went to tacoma. i spotted a foot hold today that i didn't seen last time and was able to send.
- purple v4/v5, helix - balance and stemming.
i also did an hour of weighted bouldering on the vb/v0/v1 routes and i am super sore now.
- blue v4/v5, slab - up the corner of the slab, some tricky holds and the last reach was far.
- orange v4/v5, slab - i don't actually remember this one very well ... i just remember it being some long reaches.
- green v4/v5, slab - this one was fun and had some heel hooking and jumping. i had some swamp-palm going on with a pinch, so it took a few tries.
- yellow v4/v5, slab - the start was tough and i had to do some fancy flagging, but once the side jugs were caught, it was just balancing up.
- purple v4/v5, corner wave - lots of gastons and side pulls.
- black v4/v5, big wave - project from last time, but i think i just pulled harder yesterday. i got pumped towards the end of the route, so it took a few tries.
- blue v4/v5, steep wave - crimps and heel hooks and gaston pinches.
- green v4/v5, steep wave - contest problem and a project from last time i went to tacoma. i spotted a foot hold today that i didn't seen last time and was able to send.
- purple v4/v5, helix - balance and stemming.
i also did an hour of weighted bouldering on the vb/v0/v1 routes and i am super sore now.
Friday, January 27, 2012
toproped today. it's a different type of beast than bouldering since the focus is more on actual movement than raw strength, but it's still fun.
- green 5.11-, short wall - this one was fun - the most interesting parts were towards the top on some meat hooks.
- blue 5.11-, short wall - flashed this one too, sort of - the hard part was at the beginning, just tricky moves to get started.
- yellow 5.11, big wall - lots of interesting holds and foot work. i blazed up this because i had some doubts on my ability to send it, but ended up getting a flash.
- green 5.11-, short wall - this one was fun - the most interesting parts were towards the top on some meat hooks.
- blue 5.11-, short wall - flashed this one too, sort of - the hard part was at the beginning, just tricky moves to get started.
- yellow 5.11, big wall - lots of interesting holds and foot work. i blazed up this because i had some doubts on my ability to send it, but ended up getting a flash.
Thursday, January 26, 2012
back with a vengeance.
- orange v5, stone gardens ballard, vantage wall - balance and some tricky moves on tricky holds
- dark blue v5, stone gardens bellevue, cave - big move jug fest, right up my alley.
- blue v5, stone gardens bellevue, cave - another big move jug fest, also up my alley.
- orange v4, stone gardens bellevue, cave - sloper fest. not horrible, but the moves are tricky and footing is required.
- pink v4, stone gardens bellevue, cave - some big moves up the cave side, a little campusing.
- pink v4, stone gardens bellevue, fang - start on the fang edge and do big moves up the side.
some notes:
- on a lot of routes, i rely on better footwork since my arms are weaker. i can still rely on brute strength once footwork craps out, but for less time.
- my fear of dynamic moves has gone away.
- i take longer to recover right now.
- orange v5, stone gardens ballard, vantage wall - balance and some tricky moves on tricky holds
- dark blue v5, stone gardens bellevue, cave - big move jug fest, right up my alley.
- blue v5, stone gardens bellevue, cave - another big move jug fest, also up my alley.
- orange v4, stone gardens bellevue, cave - sloper fest. not horrible, but the moves are tricky and footing is required.
- pink v4, stone gardens bellevue, cave - some big moves up the cave side, a little campusing.
- pink v4, stone gardens bellevue, fang - start on the fang edge and do big moves up the side.
some notes:
- on a lot of routes, i rely on better footwork since my arms are weaker. i can still rely on brute strength once footwork craps out, but for less time.
- my fear of dynamic moves has gone away.
- i take longer to recover right now.
Tuesday, January 24, 2012
i had a send drought and then went on a 1 week vacation. i think i'm back on the wagon and working back strong.
- green v4, stone gardens ballard, back wall - crimps and stuff, balance.
- green v4 [?] stone gardens ballard, new 45' - up the arete on some stretchy stuff. not bad, but balancy.
- blue v4, stone gardens ballard, cave - the type of climb i love - big strong moves.
- green v4, stone gardens ballard, back wall - crimps and stuff, balance.
- green v4 [?] stone gardens ballard, new 45' - up the arete on some stretchy stuff. not bad, but balancy.
- blue v4, stone gardens ballard, cave - the type of climb i love - big strong moves.
Thursday, January 12, 2012
there's been something off with my climbing lately. i've been sending harder slab problems and flailing at roofs.
- blue v5, peaks, stone gardens bellevue - starts with a crimpy and reachy mess and gets to a layback on a sloped edge. after this, it involves mantling up on the sloped edge to - you guessed it - a giant slopy thing. then, mantle to the end.
i didn't want to try it too many times as the crimps were painful so i spent a lot of time on a break on the giant slopy thing, chalking both my hands and the hold.
- blue v5, peaks, stone gardens bellevue - starts with a crimpy and reachy mess and gets to a layback on a sloped edge. after this, it involves mantling up on the sloped edge to - you guessed it - a giant slopy thing. then, mantle to the end.
i didn't want to try it too many times as the crimps were painful so i spent a lot of time on a break on the giant slopy thing, chalking both my hands and the hold.
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